Black Fashion Week: stunning setting and showpieces

The lineup of models at Ralph Leroy's show at Montreal Black Fashion Week on May 31, 2015. PHOTO: Pierre Marie Victor Salomon
The lineup of models at Ralph Leroy’s show at Montreal Black Fashion Week on May 31, 2015. PHOTO: Pierre Marie Victor Salomon Pierre Marie Victor Salomon

Part-time Montrealers Ralph Leroy and Helmer Joseph were among a dozen designers to show at the magnificent Église St-Jean Baptiste Friday and Saturday as part of Black Fashion Week. Leroy staged an all-white show with a stunning finale of showpieces, including one ensemble of multiple tiny ruffles that took seven workers 400 hours to create.

Leroy divides his time between Montreal, New York and Haiti, where he opened an atelier in January as a learning centre for young people. “It’s a way to give back to my country,” Leroy said.

Similarly, couturier Helmer (as he and his collections are known) divides his time between Paris, Montreal and Haiti. In Paris, he is under contract for two collections, while in Haiti he is working toward setting up a couture school. Known for his technical wizardry in hand-crafted lace and embroidery, Helmer burst onto the Montreal scene in 2007. He will show his menswear at Toronto Men’s Fashion Week in August.

Black Fashion Week is a production of Adama Paris, which also stages events in Paris, Prague and Salvador de Bahia.

A showpiece by Ralph Leroy that took 400 hours of work, shown at Montreal Black Fashion Week May 31, 2015. PHOTO Pierre Marie Victor Salomon

A showpiece by Ralph Leroy that took 400 hours of work, shown at Montreal Black Fashion Week May 31, 2015. PHOTO Pierre Marie Victor Salomon

Pierre Marie Victor Salomon

A look by couturieur Helmer Joseph shown at Montreal Black Fashion Week May 30, 2015. PHOTO Sachin Shrestha

A look by couturier Helmer Joseph shown at Montreal Black Fashion Week May 30, 2015. PHOTO Sachin Shrestha

Sachin Shrestha

 

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Art of Cool Fest offers mix of free programming

— The Art of Cool Project’s fourth annual festival is poised to be its biggest yet. Taking over downtown Durham this weekend, the event will feature headliners Common, George Clinton and Revive Big Band.

You don’t necessarily need a ticket to enjoy this celebration of progressive jazz and alternative soul music. A plethora of free programming is also offered Thursday through Sunday.

Here are some of the free events you should check out:

Thursday

Durham A-Z: J is for Jazz Opening Party at Museum of Durham History – J is for Jazz, the tenth installment in Durham: A-Z, explores a piece of the rich history of jazz in Durham. These local jazz studies programs at North Carolina Central University and Duke University, coupled with an enthusiastic community, provided students with performance opportunities and experience both in and out of the classroom.

The President’s Party with Empire Strikes Brass at The Blue Note Grill – The force is strong with Empire Strikes Brass. With the capability to perform as a full 10-piece stage band or 6-7 piece combo lineup, add DJ Push/Pull for an electronic set or take you to New Orleans by transforming into a true second line parade, ESB’s versatility allows them to adapt to virtually any party setting imaginable.

Friday

Black on Black Art Exhibit Reception at American Tobacco Campus’ Reed Building – “Black On Black” is an exhibition where curators of color asked artists of color to share their thoughts on identity in their own voice. Black on Black features 10 North Carolina-based artists of color and includes paintings, video and mixed media.

Saturday

30 years “Paid in Full” at American Underground – A fireside chat on the impact and creative process of the classic hip hop album “Paid In Full” by Rakim and Eric B.

The Science of Cool at American Tobacco Campus – The North Carolina Science Festival will present live science shows on a stage in the Cage at ATC. Come see some amazing feats of science, try volunteering for an experiment and learn about some truly “cool” science involving liquid nitrogen. On top of watching a live show, you will have the rare opportunity to ask scientists any questions you can think up. Bee Downtown will also host a show.

Parents Just Don’t Understand at American Underground – Whether you are looking to hire a younger workforce or just trying to get your kid to take out the trash, this session is for you. Branding specialist Tru Pettigrew offers millennial insights.

F.A.M.E. at American Underground – This panel discussion will celebrate the intersection of fashion, art, music and entertainment. Domo Jones, chief strategy officer at Medium PR, and Raleigh Denim’s Sarah Yarborough are among the speakers.

Who Sampled? at American Underground – Take a journey with the lessons in jazz crew as you revisit classic records of yesteryear and their contributions to today’s hits. Kevin “The Moose” Anderson and Montez “The Whiz” Martin of Lessons in Jazz/WHOV-FM host.

Equity and Entrepreneurship at American Underground – Sherrel Dorsey, the founder of The PLUG, a daily tech newsletter, and Tia Bethea, the community impact manager at Google Fiber, are among the panelists who will be discussing the important roles organizations play in ensuring that access to opportunities are equally distributed.

Jus Once Band at The Stack at American Tobacco – The Jus Once Band was formed in 2003 through the vision and leadership of Santonio Parker. The band has become one of the hottest and most demanding in the area. Jus Once has performed with national artists such as Chrissette Michele, Mint Condition, Con funk shun, Dougie Fresh, Next, 112, Dej Loaf, Arrested Development, Zapp, Sunshine Anderson, Carl Thomas and Atlantic Starr just to name a few.

VR Vault at American Underground – This is an interactive demo of the latest 360 and virtual reality platforms in sports, music and culture. Speakers include LEVR Studios’ creative director and producer Mike Cuales and Lucid Dream CEO Johsua Setzer.

Sunday

The Beats Dusk ‘Til Durham at The Durham Hotel rooftop – Now in its ninth year, The Beast is an innovative and electrifying hip hop and jazz ensemble known for pushing creative boundaries and dynamic collaborations.

Get the full schedule for Art of Cool 2017

RankTribe™ Black Business Directory News – Arts & Entertainment

Tristan Walker’s Bevel is making shaving better for men of color

This is probably the blackest this backstage room at the Dolby Theater is going to be for a while.

Granted, there are only two black people in the room — me and a 30-year-old guy named Tristan Walker — but considering that the Oscars will be held here in a week, that’s probably a safe assessment.

Walker is the founder and chief executive of Walker & Co. Brands, the company behind Bevel, a line of shaving products for men of color. I’m here to interview him, but he’s busy admiring a photo on the wall. The photo is of Halle Berry and Denzel Washington, proudly displaying their Oscars during that one historic moment in 2002 when two black people won the Best Actor and Actress awards.

Walker has flown down from Palo Alto, where he lives with his wife and son, to speak on a panel about diversity in tech start-ups along with Magic Johnson, who is also an investor in Bevel. In the two years and change since Bevel’s launch, the company has raised $33.3 million in funding, gotten nods from GQ, picked up a celebrity endorsement from Nas and this month went from an online-only product to a debut on Target’s shelves.

I’ve never so much as touched a Bevel razor, but I’m constantly hearing about it on Twitter, black fashion sites and on any one of several black podcasts. You may be wondering, like I was: Why is everyone so excited about a razor?

Walker tells me that Bevel started from a pair of frustrations. “A lot of global culture is led by American culture, which in turn is led by black culture,” he says. “And also Asian and Latino culture.” Too often, he says, those contributions go unrecognized.

The second frustration is the plight of what he calls the “ethnic aisle.” I’m already laughing when he says the words, because I know exactly what he’s talking about: the spot in every grocery store set aside for hair-care products for black and brown people.

“You gotta go back to aisle 15” — at this point, he’s laughing too — “but it’s not really an aisle, it’s just a shelf in the back, right? And you gotta reach down to the bottom of the shelf for some dusty package, and there’s a picture of a 65-year-old dude in a Jheri curl and a towel, and they’re assuming that I’m going to buy that product. It’s that whole second-class citizen experience.”

So for Walker, that feeling of being ignored by cosmetics companies was more than an annoyance — it was an opportunity.

Traditionally, we don’t think of grooming as being at the top of the list of conversation among men. But for a lot of black and brown men with coarse and curly hair, shaving is a daily ordeal, and a cheap multi-blade razor that works wonders on your white buddy’s face can turn your neck into something approximating Nestle Crunch.

This is how Walker says that his company differs from Venice-based Dollar Shave Club, another popular start-up. Dollar Shave Club offers razors starting at $1 (plus shipping) per month, and at $89.95 for a three-month supply of blades and shaving product.

Bevel can’t compete on price. But Walker is betting that customers will find that his single-blade razor, which he says is better for men that suffer from razor bumps, is worth the premium. The gamble seems to be paying off, because the company reports that 97% of customers renew their subscriptions.

“I get all these emails,” Walker says. “I just got one from a guy in the Army, saying something like ‘For as long as I can remember, razor bumps have been as much a part of my military career as my uniform.'” He counts black men in the military among his most enthusiastic supporters.

One engine of Bevel’s word-of-mouth success is sponsored podcasts. Black-run podcasts have a wide listenership, and it’s pretty common to hear the host of “The Black Guy Who Tips” or “The Combat Jack Show” go on an extended riff about the virtues of Bevel. Walker is enthusiastic about podcasters and rattles off a bunch of his favorites. “We sponsor a whole bunch of them,” Walker says.

These podcasts are popular in part because they reach a community that is often overlooked by other media. Because this is a community that is savvy about social media and vocal about what they like (and don’t like), when something comes along that speaks to them, they pay attention.

And sure enough, most of the online chatter about Bevel isn’t sponsored. It’s organic. DeRay Mckesson, a prominent activist who has recently announced his intention to run for mayor of Baltimore, recently tweeted that he had “only heard positive things” about Bevel.

“It was a pretty good point of validation for us, especially with all the really great work he’s doing,” Walker says. He admits that he gets excited whenever someone famous mentions Bevel online. “We send an email out to everyone, like, retweet! retweet!”

So much enthusiasm surrounds the company that there’s now a persistent rumor that Walker turned down a half-billion-dollar buyout offer from Gillette to keep his company black-owned.

“That’s not true,” Walker says. But he can understand why the rumor started.

“When my mother was growing up, she had SoftSheen Carson and ‘Soul Train.’ So I’m thinking about how can we build a company that this generation, and future generations, can be fundamentally proud to support? How much is that worth?”

It’s worth a lot, he says. People are proud of Bevel. “I think that’s why there’s this pent-up excitement,” which in turn fuels misquotes and rumors.

One of the masterminds behind the brand’s visibility is Cassidy Blackwell, who blogged about natural hair care for women for years before joining Bevel. She directs the content on bevelcode.com, a site staffed by Bevel employees. Most of the content would feel at home on a men’s fashion or hip-hop site: an interview with Nas about why he started wearing that “half-moon” part in his hair, photos of President Obama’s barber, recommendations for Valentine’s Day gifts and reviews of good barbershops in a handful of major cities. The site strengthens loyalty to the Bevel brand.

Bevel is a privately held company that doesn’t disclose its sales figure. But they seem confident about the future. Walker says they are getting ready to launch a line of products for women of color, and Bevel just announced two major accomplishments.

The first: After two years as an online-only subscription product, Bevel is now stocked on Target shelves because Walker struck up a relationship with a customer who left a glowing review from an @target.com email address.

“He turned out to be in charge of purchasing for personal care products,” Walker says. “Two months later we were in a meeting, a year later we were on Target shelves.”

Target seems pretty happy about the arrangement:

The second is the announcement of a new hand-held trimmer, accompanied by a celebrity endorsement of a rapper known for his intricate haircut: Nas. The endorsement was easy to get, Walker says, because Nas was the first investor in the company.

A pause. I stop Walker and ask him to clarify that he actually went and pitched Nas. Like, “I’m starting a shaving goods company, want to give us some money?” — just like that?

“Yeah.” Walker nods, as if asking a legendary rapper for cash to start up a shaving company is the most logical business decision in the world. “And the Queens connection helped too.”

So about a year into the business relationship, Walker asked Nas — who has invested in several tech start-ups — if he would be interested in helping the company market a new portable beard trimmer. He agreed immediately, and they produced a sleek ad for the device.

By creating a trimmer, Bevel is taking on decades of loyalty among professional barbers to time-tested brands such as Andis and Wahl.

But pre-orders are already rolling in, and thanks to relationships established via interviews at Bevel Code, celebrity barbers already talking the product up. One of the first in line: the personal barber for Barack Obama.

Walker’s drive for success isn’t surprising to his fans — yes, he has fans — who know at least a bit about his past. He was born in a rough neighborhood in Southside Jamaica Queens, N.Y., and after his father was killed when he was 4, he was raised by his mother. He went on to get an MBA at Stanford University, and was director of business development at Foursquare before landing at Andreessen Horowitz, the highest-profile and largest venture capital firm in Silicon Valley. Greg Bettinelli, a partner at Upfront Ventures, says that his company was interested in Walker even before he had an idea to pitch them. When he did, they wrote a check.

Walker & Co. (of which Bevel is a flagship brand) is located in Silicon Valley. It’s run largely by and for people of color, in a sea of companies that are overwhelmingly white, Asian and male.

Most of the company’s 22 employees are women and minorities, and it will probably continue to stay that way, Walker says. “We’re deliberate about that. I challenge anybody to say they have a more diverse team.”

Walker’s work doesn’t stop within his own company. He’s also the co-founder of an organization called Code 2040, which he launched with a classmate from his days at Stanford Business School. The name refers to an estimate of when people of color will make up the majority of the U.S. population.

The goal of Code 2040 is to create internship opportunities for black and Latino engineering students. More than 95% of the interns get full-time job offers from their companies.

“These are engineers who are really good,” Walker says. “So for a lot of these companies that say they can’t find [black and brown] engineers, they’re full of it. We’re proving that.”

The panel on tech diversity is about to start, and one of the organizers is waving to us to hurry up. Walker picks up his backpack and is about to walk out, but then he reaches into his pocket and pulls out his iPhone.

He wants a selfie next to that Halle and Denzel photo.

dexter.thomas@latimes.com

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